Monday, June 14, 2010
Expected Results
I've researched a few similar experiments and they all agree that chemically dyed fabrics are of a better quality than naturally dyed ones. My data also agrees with this. Since I highly doubt that all us scientists used exactly the same dyes, I can conclude that chemical fabric dyes broadly are generally better resistors of weathering and have more colour endurance than natural dyes broadly. When I say broadly I'm just emphasising an inclusion of many different brands and types. Like Dylon make hand washing dyes and machine dyes, but I'm still quite sure both of these dyes are of more or less equal quality.
Sunday, June 13, 2010
Dyed Squares
Saturday, June 12, 2010
FINISHED TESTING
I have finished my tests and you will see my results in my report. But until then I will put up some more research to entertain you.
Apparently there are certain bonds between the dyes and fabric which strongly hold them together. And the difference between chemical and natural dyes are these bonds. So essentially, I'm determining which bonds are the strongest.
The material I am using is ordinary calico, which I'm quite sure is 100% cotton. This would be best coz cotton is one of the most absorbant dying materials.
Apparently there are certain bonds between the dyes and fabric which strongly hold them together. And the difference between chemical and natural dyes are these bonds. So essentially, I'm determining which bonds are the strongest.
The material I am using is ordinary calico, which I'm quite sure is 100% cotton. This would be best coz cotton is one of the most absorbant dying materials.
Thursday, June 3, 2010
Almost Begun Testing
Dying is a very messy process. As I dyed I recorded everything I did because it ended up being quite different to my previous method.
I used gloves and wore some old clothes. My 'protective clothing'. I used two buckets, filled them with warm water, the dye and five 15cm calico squares. I then left them to soak for 3 hours and afterwards laid them out to dry on about 5 layers of newspaper. I havent started my trials yet though.
But these are the dye powders, which i had trouble uploading before but they're here now so...enjoy!
I used gloves and wore some old clothes. My 'protective clothing'. I used two buckets, filled them with warm water, the dye and five 15cm calico squares. I then left them to soak for 3 hours and afterwards laid them out to dry on about 5 layers of newspaper. I havent started my trials yet though.
But these are the dye powders, which i had trouble uploading before but they're here now so...enjoy!
The more yellowish-green one is the Henna. The lighting obviously isn't very good either.
Tuesday, June 1, 2010
How to set out results
I'm considering organising my data into tables. I can't do a graph with only observations.
Anyways, I've dyed my fabrics and the Dylon worked out quite well...not so much the Henna. And I won't have enough time to re-dye. It's ok though because I'm only comparing it the original state of its colour.
Anyways, I've dyed my fabrics and the Dylon worked out quite well...not so much the Henna. And I won't have enough time to re-dye. It's ok though because I'm only comparing it the original state of its colour.
Tuesday, May 25, 2010
Thursday, May 13, 2010
Research Continued...
Im going to use black coloured natural and chemical dye. This way the colour changes will be more obvious. The controlling of the dye colour will also be another independent variable.Here's some more info on Henna and chemical dye:

Henna is a flowering plant, scientifically called Lawsonia inermis. Its uses include the dying of skin, hair, leather, fingernails, wool and a few other fabrics. The art of Henna dying has been practised since ancient times, with origins from the India and the Middle-East.
Chemical dyes are manufactured products, the ones we normally see on shelves in Coles or Woolies or used in hair saloons. When applied to fabric, these dyes undergo a chemical reaction. The fibres of the material are subjected to a change in PH level in order to help the particular colour bond to it. Acid dyes are usually used on protein fibers like wool, silk and other animal based fibers. Basic dyes are used more on cellulose fabrics like cotton and hemp, though they still work on protein fibres but are less effective.

Chemical dyes are manufactured products, the ones we normally see on shelves in Coles or Woolies or used in hair saloons. When applied to fabric, these dyes undergo a chemical reaction. The fibres of the material are subjected to a change in PH level in order to help the particular colour bond to it. Acid dyes are usually used on protein fibers like wool, silk and other animal based fibers. Basic dyes are used more on cellulose fabrics like cotton and hemp, though they still work on protein fibres but are less effective.

Sample Of Dye Experiments
This is basically a sample of what my experiment aims to achieve. The objectives are the same but the methods vary.
Science/Design & Technology
http://www.colour-ed.org/activity/act_06/06_index.htm
This is also a related experiment, not only comparing natural and synthetic dyes but also their effects on a range of fabrics.
Science/Design & Technology
http://www.colour-ed.org/activity/act_06/06_index.htm
Science/Design & Technology
http://www.colour-ed.org/activity/act_06/06_index.htm
This is also a related experiment, not only comparing natural and synthetic dyes but also their effects on a range of fabrics.
Science/Design & Technology
http://www.colour-ed.org/activity/act_06/06_index.htm
Wednesday, May 12, 2010
So-Called Research
I havent found an experiment that is very similar to mine as of yet, so I have instead based my method on the information provided by this very helpful website.
How To Dye Fabrics At Home, Elizabeth Hardy, 2002
http://www.essortment.com/all/dyesfabrics_rasq.htm
It answered questions like:
How To Dye Fabrics At Home, Elizabeth Hardy, 2002
http://www.essortment.com/all/dyesfabrics_rasq.htm
It answered questions like:
- What equipment will I need?
- What's the difference between hot-water and cold-water dye?
- What happens after I've immersed the article in dye?
- What kind of material can I dye?
Equipment
- 50omL (approximately) natural liquid dye
- 500mL (approximately) chemical liquid dye
- 10 small pieces of (100%) cotton fabric
- 2 large pots
- 1 wooden spoon
- newspaper
- plastic gloves
Actual, Real Method
- obtain equipment
- lie newspaper down in the areas where the experiment will be conducted (dye is usually quite messy)
- wear a pair of plastic gloves
- setup equipment as shown below:

- simmer both fabrics in their respective dyes for 1hr, stirring occassionally with a wooden spoon to allow the dye to be absorbed evenly
- leave fabrics to dry, preferably indoors and not machine dried
- expose dry fabrics to the sun for one day
- record observations (similarities and differences between the resulting colours, textures, etc.)
- repeat from 'simmer both fabrics...' to last step, but replace step 'expose dry fabrics to the sun for one day' with these scenarios: wash fabrics every day for one week, leave dry fabrics out during a period of rain, machine dry fabrics every day for one week. Each scenario requires a new chemically and naturally dyed fabric.
- repeat from 'simmer both fabrics...' to last step, but apply one naturally and one chemically dyed fabric to all the scenarios listed, including 'expose dry fabrics to the sun for one day'
- tabulate final results
Tuesday, May 11, 2010
Materials
The natural dye I've decided to use is Henna. This is why:

- it is readily available and easy to use
- i am certain that it does not contain any chemical components (at least my one doesnt)
- it can be applied to a wide range of materials - including skin (is that a material?), hair and fabric
I think I am going to use cotton as my material. I've done some research and apparently cotton is the most evenly absorbant fabric to dye. Evidence:

http://www.dylon.com.au/dyeingeasier.htm
"100% cotton is the best candidate, as it takes colour evenly and predictably."
http://www.essortment.com//all/dyesfabrics_rasq.htm
The chemical dye is T.B.A. Watch this space to find out!
Method-ology
This is a quick outline for my experiment, which if you don't remember is a comparison between au naturale and chemical dyes.
First of all, I have to soak the material in different dyes for the same amount of time and liquid dye.
I would then leave them to dry, which should take an approximately equal amount of time.
After drying, I could apply my various tests to them. e.g exposing them to the sun for a long period of time, repeatedly washing them, leaving them out in the rain. For each test I would use a newly dyed fabric though, otherwise the final results will be affected by all the other variables. They would keep compounding, each affecting the next result.
Wait! No. For my experiment I'll use 2 fabric samples of each dye - one which is solely for the use of each applied variable and another which is subject to all variables.
Finally, I would record my observations and probably tabulate them or something...
First of all, I have to soak the material in different dyes for the same amount of time and liquid dye.
I would then leave them to dry, which should take an approximately equal amount of time.
After drying, I could apply my various tests to them. e.g exposing them to the sun for a long period of time, repeatedly washing them, leaving them out in the rain. For each test I would use a newly dyed fabric though, otherwise the final results will be affected by all the other variables. They would keep compounding, each affecting the next result.
Wait! No. For my experiment I'll use 2 fabric samples of each dye - one which is solely for the use of each applied variable and another which is subject to all variables.
Finally, I would record my observations and probably tabulate them or something...
Figured out how to post.
To everyone who laughed at me coz i didnt know how to create a new post: I've done it! Better late than never.
Friday, February 26, 2010
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